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How new-account fraud is actually blocked

Most 'identity theft' that wrecks a month is a new account you did not open, or a takeover of email that resets everything else. The defenses are boring on purpose.

Freeze credit at the major bureaus so new lenders cannot open a file without you lifting the freeze. Put a unique password and an authenticator on email. A freeze does not stop charges on a card you already have.

Freeze versus fraud alert

A credit freeze tells the bureaus not to release your file to a new lender. You thaw it when you apply for credit, then freeze again. A fraud alert asks lenders to take extra steps to check it is you. The freeze is the harder gate.

AnnualCreditReport.com is the federal site for a free report from each bureau. A freeze is placed at each bureau, not at a bank app. This page does not file one for you.

Email is the skeleton key

The primary email account is how password resets work. A unique password in a password manager, plus an authenticator app (not only a text message), is the usual stack. SIM-swap attacks are why text-message codes are weaker than an app or a hardware key.

Phishing is a message that wants the code or the password. Banks do not email a link that asks you to 'verify' by typing the password on a new page. Type the bank address yourself.

When a charge is already there

Call the bank or card issuer first and lock the card. Then change the email password, freeze credit, and write down dates and reference numbers. A freeze does not reverse a charge on an open account. The issuer's dispute process does.

Transaction alerts shorten the time between the theft and the call. They are not a score. They are a doorbell.

Questions people ask

Does a freeze hurt my credit score?

No. It blocks new-account pulls until you lift it.

Does a freeze stop someone using my existing card?

No. Lock that card with the issuer.

Is a paid monitoring app the same as a freeze?

Monitoring tells you after the fact. A freeze tries to stop the new account from opening.

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